Copyright © 2019 Burnham-on-sea Woodturning Club

Burnham-on-sea          Woodturning Club

Meeting Reviews

November 2019 - Colwin Way

October 2019 - Liz Kent

September 2019 - John Blake

August 2019 - Sandra Adams

July 2019 - Chris Foweraker

June 2019 - Paul Sweet

May 2019 - George Foweraker

April 2019 - Bryan Milham

March 2019 - Mark Sanger

February 2019 - George Foweraker

January 2019 - Paul Sweet

November 2018 - Jason Breach

October 2018 - Colwin Way

September 2018 - John Blake

August 2018 - Paul Sweet

July 2018 - Mark Sanger

June 2018 - John Lancaster

April 2018 - Liz Kent

March 2018 - Paul Hannaby

January 2018 - George Foweraker

November 2017 - Jason Breach

October 2017 - Tony George

September 2017 - Bryan Milham

September 2017 - AWGB

August 2017 - Mark Hancock

June 2017 - John Aitken

April 2017 - Chris Foweraker

March 2017 - Mark Sanger

February 2017 - George Foweraker

January 2017 - Paul Sweet

November 2016 - Jason Breach

October 2016 - Bryan Milham

September 2016 - Mark Sanger

August 2016 - Keith Fenton

July 2016 - George Foweraker

June 2016 - Chris Foweraker

June 2016 - Stuart Mortimer

April 2016 - Pete Moncrieff-Jury

March 2016 - Mark Sanger

February 2016 - Ray Blake

January 2016 - George Foweraker

December 2015 - Nick Agar

November 2015 - Paul Hannaby

October 2015 - George Foweraker

September 2015 - Mark Sanger

August 2015 - Jason Breach

July 2015 - Chris Foweraker

June 2015 - Nick Agar

November 2018 - Jason Breach

Jason started by showing us the proposed finished piece which was a box with interesting lid design made from a highly attractive and figured wood called Masur Birch found in Finland and Russia.

We were all immediately wondering how he managed to cut the circular inlays of African Blackwood and we were about to find out!

Using the chuck as a friction drive and with tailstock in place the blank was turned down to round using a bowl gouge and a spigot turned using a beading tool. Remounting the spigot into the chuck a similar spigot was cut on the other end.

Top Tip 1 - one end of the blank was the original waxed end of the blank and therefore most likely to have potential cracks so, when marking out the 1/3 lid and 2/3 base, it is advisable to use the the non-waxed end for the lid.

Top Tip 2 - when using the 1/16” parting tool to separate lid and base don’t have the tailstock in place as this will put pressure on the parting tool.

Top Tip 3 - when parting off put a sheet of card or something light to better see how far the parting cut has gone.

Top Tip 4 - part down to about 1/2” and then complete the cut with a saw - it’s safer!


Because of the depth required for the inlay the lid was to be recessed to only one half of it’s thickness.

Top Tip 5 - there was a long discussion as to the favoured grip to use on the gouge for this process. Most people would naturally use the finger & thumb or the overhand grip but Jason favours using the long toolrest which he then grips with his left hand and uses the left thumb to guide and push the tool along  - see example below …


Top Tip 6 - to gradually get a tight fit create a taper on the spigot and gradually modify the taper until a tight fit is achieved.

Top Tip 7 - for a tight fit ensure that the sanding is done with the lid attached to the base so that there is an even heat in both parts.


Top Tip 8 - throughout the whole of the above process make sure that the position of the banjo on the lathe bid is not disturbed.

And now for the magic …

African Blackwood dust was mixed with epoxy resin and hardener (warmed to ensure easy application) and then rubbed into the design on the lid, keeping it slightly proud, and leave to set for at least 24hours.

Top Tip 9 - make sure that the lid top is well sealed beforehand otherwise the colour may get pulled into the grain.

We couldn’t wait 24hrs! so in true Blue Peter fashion Jason produced the lid of a sycamore box that had gone through a similar process but using 2 colours. This was achieved by cutting alternate circles and filling with one colour, allowing to dry, and then cutting the other alternate circles and filling with the second colour. (The red colour was using Paduk dust)

The lid top was cleaned up using a round nosed scraper and then the base mounted in a jam chuck in order to finish the base bottom.

Top Tip 10 - when using a parting tool there are sometimes fluffy fibres on the edge. These can be removed using a burnishing brush.

Once again a brilliant demonstration from Jason with lots of learning points - he managed to break the record of Top Tips with 10.

Thanks to Jason, particularly when he had to fly to Norway before dawn the following morning!

David Langan