Copyright © 2017 Burnham-on-sea Woodturning Club

Burnham-on-sea          Woodturning Club

Meeting Reviews

June 2017 - John Aitken

April 2017 - Chris Foweraker

March 2017 - Mark Sanger

February 2017 - George Foweraker

January 2017 - Paul Sweet

November 2016 - Jason Breach

October 2016 - Bryan Milham

September 2016 - Mark Sanger

August 2016 - Keith Fenton

July 2016 - George Foweraker

June 2016 - Chris Foweraker

June 2016 - Stuart Mortimer

April 2016 - Pete Moncrieff-Jury

March 2016 - Mark Sanger

February 2016 - Ray Blake

January 2016 - George Foweraker

December 2015 - Nick Agar

November 2015 - Paul Hannaby

October 2015 - George Foweraker

September 2015 - Mark Sanger

August 2015 - Jason Breach

July 2015 - Chris Foweraker

June 2015 - Nick Agar


November 2016 - Jason Breach

Jason never disappoints with his demos - last time it was an off-centre box and lid in holly, using an offcentre spiralling chuck and this time …





 … a Pagoda Box made from a piece of Quercus Ilex known as the Evergreen Oak, Holly Oak or Holm Oak






As can be seen from the picture, it was no surprise that one of the recurring top tips throughout the demo was about keeping tools and fingers out of the way of the spinning square sides to avoid knocking corners off the box and fingers!


The square section wood was mounted on the lathe and spigots created on both ends (the spigot on the bottom was in an undercut section which formed the foot of the base. The top and base were then separated by sawing through the partially made cut prior to the demo, although in the workshop the preferred method would be to use a bandsaw.


With the top section mounted, the underside of the lid was shaped and the opening to receive the base spigot made ensuring that the sides of the lid opening were parallel.


With the base mounted, the majority of the base was rounded down using a 3/8” bowl gouge to remove most of the material. Mark the diameter of the inside of the lid and then gradually turn down the diameter of the spigot initially keeping a taper until the lid can just be mounted, creating a “polished” line down to which the rest of the taper is then turned to ensure a tight fit.


















With the lid mounted on the base, a bowl gouge was used to shape the top of the lid (mind the fingers!) and the finial created using a series of successive taper cuts and bead cuts using a fluted parting tool.


The base was then hollowed out using a bowl gouge held high up but with the handle trapped under the forearm for support. After rough hollowing Jason used his own brand box tool to finish the sides and to create a smooth rounded transition at the bottom between the sides and the base.


The lid and base were then sanded - watch fingers again!


A jamb chuck was made to hold the base to enable the base to be undercut.


Top Tip - don’t use the tailstock at this point to support the base as the handle of the gouge can’t be presented low enough, causing an irreparable catch when attempting the undercut.


Finally, the square edges were sanded using a piece of 240grit abrasive glued to a board and then pushed cross grain.

























To make such an adventurous piece in the time, whilst providing an informative stream of explanations and tips, with the constant danger from those spinning straight edges!, was a testament to Jason’s skill.


Thanks to Jason for an excellent demonstration.


David Langan