Copyright © 2019 Burnham-on-sea Woodturning Club

Burnham-on-sea          Woodturning Club

Meeting Reviews

October 2019 - Liz Kent

September 2019 - John Blake

August 2019 - Sandra Adams

July 2019 - Chris Foweraker

June 2019 - Paul Sweet

May 2019 - George Foweraker

April 2019 - Bryan Milham

March 2019 - Mark Sanger

February 2019 - George Foweraker

January 2019 - Paul Sweet

November 2018 - Jason Breach

October 2018 - Colwin Way

September 2018 - John Blake

August 2018 - Paul Sweet

July 2018 - Mark Sanger

June 2018 - John Lancaster

April 2018 - Liz Kent

March 2018 - Paul Hannaby

January 2018 - George Foweraker

November 2017 - Jason Breach

October 2017 - Tony George

September 2017 - Bryan Milham

September 2017 - AWGB

August 2017 - Mark Hancock

June 2017 - John Aitken

April 2017 - Chris Foweraker

March 2017 - Mark Sanger

February 2017 - George Foweraker

January 2017 - Paul Sweet

November 2016 - Jason Breach

October 2016 - Bryan Milham

September 2016 - Mark Sanger

August 2016 - Keith Fenton

July 2016 - George Foweraker

June 2016 - Chris Foweraker

June 2016 - Stuart Mortimer

April 2016 - Pete Moncrieff-Jury

March 2016 - Mark Sanger

February 2016 - Ray Blake

January 2016 - George Foweraker

December 2015 - Nick Agar

November 2015 - Paul Hannaby

October 2015 - George Foweraker

September 2015 - Mark Sanger

August 2015 - Jason Breach

July 2015 - Chris Foweraker

June 2015 - Nick Agar

October 2019 - Liz Kent

After last year’s excellent demonstration of her award winning Green Dragon bowl we were delighted to welcome Liz back to our club.

This time Liz demonstrated the making of a lidded bowl with a decorated band on the lid using pyrography and acrylic paints.

Both bowl and lid were made out of sycamore bowl blanks, the lid approx 6” x 1.5” and the bowl approx 7” x 2”.

Lid …

The blank was mounted on a small faceplate held in the “C” jaws, trued up and the face flattened off. A 35mm spigot was then formed about 11mm deep so that a lid knob could be created from the spigot at a later stage.

The outer shape of the lid was then formed using bowl gouges, finishing with a shear cut before sanding using the Simon Hope sanding tool.

The decorative band was then marked out, 15mm from the edge and 10mm wide. A design for the band was created using a pyrography tool (see pictures below) and then masked using decorators tape. The tape is difficult to apply due to the curved and sloping nature of the lid but it is important to be precise at this stage as any paint which gets on to the lid outside of the band is very difficult to remove.

(Webmaster’s note: I suggested trying watercolour artists masking liquid which I shall experiment with and update this review if results are successful)

The band was then painted with 2 coats of black “Artiste” acrylic paint before highlighting by applying metallic blue and metallic red using the dry brush technique which Liz used in the making of her “Green Dragon” bowl. Finally a point tool was used to define the edge of the band giving he opportunity to remove any slight overspills of paint at the edge of the band.

The inside of the lid was then hollowed out leaving a ”button” at the top of the lid to prevent any “lampshade” effect when the top button is formed!

Bowl …

The blank was mounted on a ring face plate, held in expansion mode, and then trued up, face flattened and a 50mm spigot formed. The final base of the bowl will be slightly wider then the spigot so this was marked and flattened up to the spigot which would be eventually turned off at the final stage.

The outside of the bowl was then turned in an ogee shape avoiding any flats which typically appear near the top of the bowl. Shear scrape, sand, cellulose seal and finish off with microcrystalline wax.

Remount on the spigot and true up the front face.

Top Tip - there are 2 rules for forming a thin walled bowl …

  1. Keep as much wood in the centre for as long as possible to support the thin top edge as it is formed
  2. Start turning thin from the top of the bowl and sand before cutting deeper

Remember that a lip is needed to support the lid using the finished lid to indicate where this point is as it will vary according to the thickness of the wall created.

Gradually remove the lower bulk a bit at a time from the centre of the bowl and finally create a “button” at the bottom of the bowl and decorate to add interest before sand, sealing and wax polishing.

All that was then needed was to mount the lid using button jaws and then shape the knob creating a “V” shape before indenting the top of the knob and decorating with a design of your choice.

The attractive finished bowl …

Liz clearly enjoys her woodturning and has a good eye for designs which are interesting and straightforward to produce with care. In all a very enjoyable and successful evening for which we thank Liz and hope that she will return in the near future.

David Langan