Copyright © 2017 Burnham-on-sea Woodturning Club

Burnham-on-sea          Woodturning Club

Meeting Reviews

November 2017 - Jason Breach

October 2017 - Tony George

September 2017 - Bryan Milham

September 2017 - AWGB

August 2017 - Mark Hancock

June 2017 - John Aitken

April 2017 - Chris Foweraker

March 2017 - Mark Sanger

February 2017 - George Foweraker

January 2017 - Paul Sweet

November 2016 - Jason Breach

October 2016 - Bryan Milham

September 2016 - Mark Sanger

August 2016 - Keith Fenton

July 2016 - George Foweraker

June 2016 - Chris Foweraker

June 2016 - Stuart Mortimer

April 2016 - Pete Moncrieff-Jury

March 2016 - Mark Sanger

February 2016 - Ray Blake

January 2016 - George Foweraker

December 2015 - Nick Agar

November 2015 - Paul Hannaby

October 2015 - George Foweraker

September 2015 - Mark Sanger

August 2015 - Jason Breach

July 2015 - Chris Foweraker

June 2015 - Nick Agar


August 2017 - Mark Hancock

Mark has been involved with wood turning for nearly 30 years and has therefore some firm ideas as to techniques and terminology and spent the first 45 minutes dispelling some of the conventional “turning speak”. For example “spindle turning” and “bowl turning” are not helpful phrases and turning should be referred to as “cross grain” or “parallel grain” irrespective of the form that is required.


Other basics covered were …


For the demonstration part of the demo Mark aimed to turn a simple bowl from 2/3 month old wet beech.


Top Tip 1 - when inserting a 4-prong drive make sure that no 2 opposite chisel points are in line with the grain to ensure a more secure grip


Mark then did the initial shaping and defined 3 sections to the turning which he said were applicable to any such project …

Section 1 - the method of holding i.e the spigot

Section 2 - a sort of buffer region which enables more room to shape the main form when held by the spigot

Section 3 - the main form body














He then introduced the term “Interactive Sequential Turning” to refer to the turning of sections 1, 2 and 3 a bit at a time


Top Tip 2 - using the tool at a 30 degree angle (guillotine angle) gives a smoother cut


Top Tip 3 - rough finish the outside of the main form before mounting on the spigot as there is no point in finishing the outside at this stage in case the form doesn’t run true when mounted on the spigot


Top Tip 4 - when tightening the work with the spigot in the chuck, tighten all the adjusters to ensure a secure and true hold


Mounting the work on the spigot, define the top rim and finish the outside shape using a shear scraper. Hollow out the inside by cutting in the middle to say 1” and then work bit by bit towards the outside to get a consistent wall thickness. Then starting at the centre move down another 1” in the same way blending the two outer edge cuts.














With the inside complete the work was mounted on a friction drive to complete the shaping of the foot.


 




 








Top Tip 5 - Look at the Tormek sharpening method for sharpening a parting tool to get clean side cuts




David Langan